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How To Remove A Lug Nut With Stripped Threads

Mathew was able to effigy out how to remove a stuck lug nut. He writes nearly his tips and tricks.

how-to-remove-a-stuck-or-stripped-lug-nut-from-your-car-or-truck

A Tire Shop Couldn't Get the Lug Nut Off

A rather bad experience at a nationally known automotive tire shop inspired me to write this article. I took my 2007 Chrysler Pacifica into the shop for a tire rotation. Unremarkably, I do this maintenance myself, but I had a coupon for a free tire rotation, so I thought I could salve some time and accept it to the shop.

The front wheels came off without a problem. The rear passenger side bike had a stuck lug nut. The mechanic was unable to remove it with his standard half dozen-point sockets and affect wrench. After he struggled for several minutes, he called me over and showed me a chewed-up looking lug nut. He then proceeded to tell me that there was no way he could get it off and that I would have to accept it elsewhere to get it removed. I was quite surprised. This was an automobile store dedicated to servicing tires. Ane would think that this problem would be encountered and dealt with regularly.

These results were completely unacceptable. I've dealt with this situation earlier, and there are very systematic ways of dealing with information technology.

  • First off, I'll share which tools are needed to get the rounded lug nut off.
  • Second, I'll review the mechanics of torque and force, so we can better understand the problem at mitt.
  • Third, I'll go through a step-past-step guide that outlines the twist socket method.
  • Lastly, I'll go over some preventative maintenance guidelines and make certain you understand what the proper torque is for your motorcar so yous can avoid the issue of over-tightening.
3 lb. hammer, 1/2" drive breaker bar, 1/2" drive with hex head nut extractor sockets, 1"x36" iron pipe, and new lug nut.

3 lb. hammer, 1/ii" drive breaker bar, i/two" drive with hex head nut extractor sockets, 1"x36" atomic number 26 pipage, and new lug nut.

  • ½" drive breaker bar $15-20
  • 1" diameter fe pipe, 36" length $10-fifteen
  • Nut/bolt extractor twist socket set up $20-100
  • 3 lb. hammer $v-x
  • WD-40 or alternative penetrating oil $5
  • Replacement lug nut $3
  • Total price: $58-153 (if you have to purchase everything)

Along with your other emergency supplies that are stored in your car, I highly recommend keeping these items in the machine besides, in instance you lot need to repair your own tires while abroad from home.

The Mechanical Reward of Leverage

The physics of leverage can be summed upwards as torque. In the context of removing a lug nut from a cycle, nosotros can think of information technology every bit a unproblematic statics problem.

  • Torque = r x F
  • Torque = rotational force at the lug nut
  • 10 = Cantankerous product
  • r = length of the breaker bar / leverage pipe
  • F = Forcefulness applied

I'd like to show how much torque you tin can generate with your body weight and compare it to the torque produced past an pneumatic impact wrench.

Impact wrenches used in auto shops range from 0-1000+(ft-lbs). Typically, betwixt 0-400 ft-lb is more common.

Using a 24" breaker bar and a 36" iron pipage I'll show you how much force your torso weight alone can produce. Assuming you lot weigh 180lb here is the calculation of torque:

  • Torque = r X ΣF [EQ one]
  • Torque = [(24in*(1ft/12in))+(36in*(1ft/12in))] 10 (180lb @ 90° vertical)
  • Torque = 900ft-lb with 36" iron pipe and 24" breaker bar;
  • Torque = 360ft-lb with 24" breaker bar but

Of course, additional force can exist generated past jumping on the cease of the pipage attached to the billow bar. I'll testify the calculation I used to find how much torque is created from a 6" vertical jump on the end of the pipe. To keep this calculation every bit simple every bit possible, I'll consider a stopping altitude equal to the thickness of the sole of a sneaker combined with the estimated deflection in the lever (iii"), and no energy losses to the environment.

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During this jumping action we tin say that at the peak height of your jump the initial potential free energy combined with the initial kinetic energy is equal to the sum of the kinetic free energy and potential free energy when you are about to state on the end of the pipe.

  • PEane + KEi = PE2 + KE2 [EQ two]
  • PE = m*m*h [EQ 3]
  • KE = 1/2*m*5two [EQ 4]
  • PEane = Potential energy at peak of the jump
  • KEone = Kinetic energy at the top of the bound = 0; no motion at pinnacle of the bound
  • PEtwo = Potential free energy right earlier landing = 0; the pipe height = 0, that you are near to state on
  • KE2 = Kinetic energy at the finish of the jump.

We can say that PE1 = KEii from the conservation on free energy principle. We will fail the energy losses due to friction, and drag. Using this information we can manipulate the equation to find how fast you are falling right earlier you state on the pipe (vii).

  • (thousand*chiliad*h)i = (1/two*m*vii)2
  • v2 = (ii*g*h)1/2 [EQ v]
  • 1000 = mass
  • g = gravity
  • h = top of jump (veritcal)
  • v = velocity (vertical management)

Considering the stopping distance (d) of 3", which is the thickness of your shoe and estimated deflection of the pipe. We can generate some other equation from a work-energy principle. The change in kinetic energy across the altitude of the thickness of your shoe during the impact is defined equally work.

  • West = ΔKE(impact) where KE at the end of the leap is 0
  • Westward = 1/two*one thousand*(five2)2 [EQ 6]

Of class we know that Work is but force applied over a (impact) distance:

  • W = F2*d [EQ vii]

Putting [EQ six] and [EQ 7] together we tin can find F2 which is the (boilerplate) forcefulness of impact.

  • F2 = 1/2*thousand*(fiveii)two*ane/d [EQ 8]

Combining this bear upon strength from the jump with the force of your weight in the torque equation [EQ ane], we have the post-obit:

  • Torque = r X [Force of impact]
  • Torque = r 10 [([2*g*h]1/2)2*1/2*grand*ane/d))
  • Torque = [24in*1ft/12in+36in*1ft/12in] X [[2*32.17ft/due southii*0.5ft]*1/ii*(180lb*1slug/32.17lb)*(ane/0.25ft)]..................<slug is but lb*southward2/ft>
  • Torque = 2160ft-lbs when you lot jump on the end of the breaker bar and piping extension

And a quick recap of what nosotros looked at:

  • Torque = 900ft-lb with 36" fe pipe and 24" breaker bar
  • Torque = 760ft-lbs if you jump on the 24" breaker bar but
  • Torque = 360ft-lb with 24" breaker bar but
  • Impact wrench = 0 - 1000ft-lbs

We meet that an fe piping with a billow bar will be plenty plenty force to overcome over tightening.

Step ane: Breaking Up the Rust

Utilize targeted, liberal amounts of WD-40 to the base of the lug to allow this penetrating oil to be fatigued into the bolt threads through capillary action. If information technology is badly rusted, so give information technology a few smacks with a hammer to break some of the rust gratis before applying the penetrating oil. Give the penetrating oil time to work, upwards to a twenty-four hours if you have the time.

Socket Choice

Socket needs to be hammered down very tight otherwise it will slip off.

Socket needs to be hammered down very tight otherwise it will sideslip off.

Stride 2: Selecting the Right Nut Extractor Socket

The nut extractor socket needs to be a tight fit onto the lug nut. And then tight that you lot must hammer it down tight with a three lb. hammer. These specialty twist sockets are really not bad; once seated properly, yous tin can turn the socket and it volition grip the nut tighter.

Breaker bar and iron pipe total of 5' length will give me around 900 ft-lbs of torque

Breaker bar and iron pipe full of 5' length will give me around 900 ft-lbs of torque

Step 3: Getting the Lug Nut Off

Adhere the ½" drive breaker bar to the nut extractor socket. If you demand to, slide the 36" iron pipage over the billow bar handle to gain an boosted mechanical advantage. If the right extractor socket was used (no slippage), and then this force will complimentary the lug nut. Definitely throw information technology out and supervene upon with a new one.

Success!

Lug nut is off with the socket.

Lug nut is off with the socket.

Getting the Bad Lug Out of the Socket

Either punch it out in a vice or hammer the crowbar as shown.

Either punch it out in a vice or hammer the crowbar as shown.

Bad Lug Aftermath

Close up view of what the lug nut looks like afterwards. Note the grooves made by the twist socket.

Close up view of what the lug nut looks like afterwards. Annotation the grooves made by the twist socket.

Alternative Strategies

While this method usually works, there are problems that can exist encountered that will require unlike strategies.

  1. If the stud is stripped: The lug spins freely simply won't come off the stud. Drill through the lug and/or stud. Select a carbide drill chip that matches the size of your stud. Apply heavy pressure while drilling at low speed to drill downwardly the eye of the lug until information technology is not longer attached to the stud. There are some specialty drill bits available on the market that I haven't tried. The videos look promising, so if you feel like taking a risk, and spending extra money I've included a link to one of these products. Note: Drilling through the stud will require you to supercede it, which can exist rather tricky for some vehicles.
  2. Tin can't grip the lug nut with twist sockets: If you lot have access to welding equipment, then tack weld a nut to the damaged 1 so yous can take a clean grip once again. Or, divide the lug with a chisel. Use a heavy two-4 lb. hammer for this and make sure you have a sharpened chisel. Split the lug nut downward the side. Careful not to damage the rim. Inspect stud for impairment, it may need to be replaced.

Preventing the Problem

Careless mechanics can easily overtighten the lug nuts with their impact wrenches. Consider speaking with your mechanic to make certain the correct torque will be practical earlier they start working on your auto. Bear in mind that different cars take dissimilar requirements for torquing lugs. Cars typically require 60-100ft-lbs of torque. Larger vehicles can crave upward of 300ft-lbs of torque. Consult your owner's manual for correct torque requirements.

Go along lugs clean and free of h2o. Clay, water, and rust on the threads and mounting bolts must be removed before attempting to put your wheel dorsum on.

If they are worn out and don't seem to fit very well, at that place is nothing wrong with getting a new set.

This article is authentic and true to the all-time of the author's cognition. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes merely and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

How To Remove A Lug Nut With Stripped Threads,

Source: https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/How-to-remove-a-stuck-or-stripped-lug-nut-from-your-car-or-truck

Posted by: perezopeas1955.blogspot.com

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